MENC Forums
An area for discussing professional concerns and music education.
You are not logged in.
Announcement
Quick update, April 28, 2009: We have updated the forum rules and added a FAQ. Email Paul Fergus with your comments and/or questions.
#1 2009-10-22 10:55:31
- clarinetkat
- Participant
- Registered: 2009-04-25
- Posts: 17
Slipping Pegs
Most of my students play on older, school owned instruments. They're all in pretty good condition, but so many of them have pegs that are constantly slipping dramatically or "popping" loose. I feel like I'm constantly retuning limp strings. Is there something I'm doing wrong or is there a way to make the pegs stay? Thanks
Offline
#2 2009-10-22 18:37:34
- Gabriel Villasurda
- 2008 May Orchestra Mentor
- Registered: 2008-04-14
- Posts: 48
- Website
Re: Slipping Pegs
Pegs that fit property rarely "pop" loose. It does happen most this time of the year, when the heating comes on the and humidity decreases as a result.
Pegs and the holes into which they fit do change over time. The scroll is made of maple, a hard wood, but not as hard as ebony from which pegs are made. They expand, contract and wear in different ways. Both parts tend to expand and contract in asymetrical ways because they take on or loose moisture along the grain lines of the wood. During certain times of the year, pegs and holes will be slightly off-round-- more oval. This variation is hard to notice with the naked eye, but it's enough to make a difference.
There is no substitute for periodic checkups by a trained and skilled luthier. What the luthier does is to put a reamer in the hole to make the hole perfectly round. This may entail a miniscule removal of wood. Then the peg is run through a shaper-- a tool that resembles a manual pencil sharpener. Again, a tiny shaving of the irregularities will take place. The taper of the peg and of the hole must match exactly. Removal of too much wood from the peg or hole will mean that the peg will sit much deeper in the hole. This will mean the head of the peg will not stand out from the wall of the pegbox and the hole in the peg itself will no longer be centered within the pegbox, making putting on a string difficult. The hole in the peg can be redrilled if necessary, but a peg that rides too close to the wall will need to be replaced.
It will take a few bucks to get the pegs to fit right, so do it right. Brute force applied to ill-fitting pegs is not only a nuisance but a risk. More than once in my life, I have seen cracks in the pegbox caused by excessive force. That requires a really expensive repair.
Visit your local violin shop for the only permanent remedy.
Gabriel Villasurda
Ann Arbor MI
Offline
#3 2009-11-03 08:17:09
- fiddle-player Sue
- 2009 November Orchestra Mentor

- From: Finger lakes o New York state
- Registered: 2008-04-17
- Posts: 196
Re: Slipping Pegs
Yes to what Gabriel wrote. If you are not that experienced a string-player/teacher, you could ask the luthier for tips on wrapping the strings. I re-wrap mine seasonally. This helps the pegs hold when it gets drier, keeps them from getting stuck when it is more humid. Sue
Offline
#4 2009-11-03 09:58:47
- clarinetkat
- Participant
- Registered: 2009-04-25
- Posts: 17
Re: Slipping Pegs
Do you replace all of the strings when you re-wrap them? Also weather has been rather unpredictable out here these last few weeks and the temperature in my room has been inconsistent as well. Is that why there are SO many kids with instruments that are just SO out of tune lately? I feel like I practically spend half of my class period tuning and retuning instruments.
Offline
#5 2009-11-03 16:58:49
- merimom
- Participant
- Registered: 2008-04-12
- Posts: 89
Re: Slipping Pegs
If definitely is worse at certain times of the year, due to weather changes, etc.
I also find that, in general, my tuning job gets easier and easier as the year goes on.
At the beginning of the year, I am "coaxing" a lot of strings to "accept" where they are supposed to be.
After many weeks of consistent tunings, I find that more and more of the instruments tend to STAY in tune, and need only minor adjustments.
I've also found that certain pegs have good and bad spots in regards to holding.
The peg might not hold HERE at this particular point. But, if I can find a place where it WILL hold (without regard to whether it is in tune there) I will put the peg where it will stay, and then adjust the pitch with the fine tuners from there. Doesn't always work if where it will hold is too far off, but sometimes it seems to make a difference.
Of course, in a perfect world, everyone would have good functioning pegs that work and hold all the time.
Offline
#6 2009-11-04 23:10:20
- darth_linux
- Just arrived
- Registered: 2009-11-03
- Posts: 3
Re: Slipping Pegs
what I do with my student instruments is when they break a string and I replace it, I use a bit of super-fine sandpaper (like 1200 grit) on the peg, just enough to take off the "glaze" that is on there, and apply some of the peg compound (looks like lipstick) onto the peg. Then I put the new string on and things are good to go. I do this every time I change a string and have noticed that I don't have those problems nearly as much. The glaze buildup is the problem, in my opinion.
Offline
#7 2009-11-06 08:21:15
- fiddle-player Sue
- 2009 November Orchestra Mentor

- From: Finger lakes o New York state
- Registered: 2008-04-17
- Posts: 196
Re: Slipping Pegs
Hi, Clarinetkat, In reply to your last question, no, I don't necessarily replace the strings. On my own instruments I replace the upper strings twice a year, and the lower once on average. On school instruments I try to change E strings annually, and the others as funds will allow. I try to never leave any string so long that it unravels or breaks from age, as opposed to from friction wear spots or stretching from excessive peg use. A well-wrapped string has the end through the drill hole perhaps a half-inch, then a couple cross-overs to prevent slipping. After that, you want to see a smooth line of wraps. In fall, get the last wrap a little closer to the pegbox, but not so that it can get caught. In spring, get the last wrap a bit further away from the side. // Peg dope is designed primarily to let pegs rotate smoothly. If my own pegs aren't working well, I'm off to the luthier. On school instruments, I have resorted to dope for pegs that turn poorly, and old-style dusty chalk for pegs that simply will not stop slipping. I clean pegs by wiping thoroughly if either peg dope or chalk builds up, but using sandpaper sounds pretty serious to me. I might, but with caution and after other remedies have failed. One suggestion is that if you have funds for repair/equipment, you try "Planetary Pegs". They are much superior to older styles of non-slip pegs. I would start with older cellos, where trying to force stubborn pegs to stay can really mess up your wrists & hands. Sue
Offline
